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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I think I've got the computer under control now.. missing the days of 20 minute operating system replacement and implementation... The firewall and VPN were not cooperative, and I think I will need to replace the media center software. and perhaps go dual boot W7 & W10 or perhaps W7 and Linux. (this computer serves triple duty as an internet machine and a mini entertainment center (W7), with a few, old, games played now and then (mostly in the winter)...

Hauled the battery and inverter to the kitchen counter this morning. Need to put some quick disconnects between them; the cables are awkward. I'll try to do a test run making a fried egg sandwich for breakfast...

Enjoy!
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Camping simulation of flameless cookery...

... my induction cooked fried egg was a failure (it was taking too long so I switched the pan to the stove before I starved...
Not sure what the problem is; tomorrow, I will re-run the fried egg trial using house current and see how that works...

I just nuked a hot dog (lunch) in the 700 watt microwave powered by the battery and inverter; it worked about as expected (Hot hot dog in about a minute. I'll try nuked popcorn later this afternoon...).

I need to down load the blue tooth app for the battery so I can see what is happening...

Enjoy!
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I'm going to switch the cooking/food trials part of this thread to a (new) thread in Recipes since it will basically be about food and flameless cooking implementation/how to...

...Perhaps with a recipe summary about setting up the system with a 100 AH battery; which I see as applicable to small trailer campers and popups as well as vehicle tent camping (my favorite)... Larger RVs and campers usually seem to have more than a single 100 Amp Hour (AH) battery.

I'll try to keep most of the detailed technical and hardware parts at here, since we don't seem to have a DIY (Do It Yourself) section..

Enjoy!
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Roughly a week ago I ordered anther 100 amp hour lithium iron phosphate battery (LiFePo4).

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There was a thump on the porch yesterday as it arrived.

The documentation said charge it; so I did, last night.
Today I will order some heavy interconnection cables (along with either some stainless studs or some stainless bolts to make into studs and some wingnuts or other quick disconnect options, to make interconnection easier) to put it in parallel with my older 100 AH battery; hopefully it will provide the power to run the induction hob for longer periods at higher power levels.

I'm not altogether certain that it was worth the extra $20 above cheaper batteries (although it did come with some nice literature/booklets).

I will post more as more supplies come in...

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
All of this electric equipment needs wiring and the wiring needs an easy method of assembly/disassembly (preferably tool-less)
An additional bump in the road is that the high currents (amperage) involved meas that the low voltage portions of the wiring needs to be very large/awkward.
The LiFePo4 (lithium phosphate batteries that I have all use metric M8-1.25 bolts to attach the wiring to the aluminum terminals; NOTE: just because the batteries and terminal bolts that I have are alike does not mean this is standard verify the sizee and thread of your battery's bolts before proceeding. (Use extreme caution when tightening these bolts since aluminum or brass is very soft and the threads are easy to strip; which would necessitate redrilling the holes and tapping to a larger bolt size or installation of helicoils to repair the stripped threads).
... another caution M8 bolts are very close to 5/16" bolts (used on some automotive lead/acid batteries), but use of 5/16" bolts will result in cross threading the holes; resulting in damage to the threaded portions of the terminals. DO NOT use 5/16" bolts in M8 holes. Get the proper hardware.

Since I would rather avoid these potential problems, my first thought was to install stainless or copper studs in the battery terminal holes and use either knurled thumb nuts or wingnuts to hand tighten the connections.

After a bit of searching on line (amazon), I found these stainless marine battery connections in the proper (M8 x 1.25) thread size;

Since I have two 100AH batteries so I bought 4
Product Body jewelry Jewellery Font Metal

(Edit) Note; the ones that I actually received have M8 x1.25 threads on one end and a 5/16 thread for the wingnut on the other.. The pic seems t o show 3/8 inch threads and wingnuts on one end.

A major caution needs to be understood;
These and similar batteries can easily supply currents that are quite literally enough to arc weld with. Use care to avoid shorting the terminals or making sparks SEVERE injury is possible; not just burns but also eye injury including retinal burns from such arcs. Protect yourself and those around you. If you must try welding with its attendant risk of battery explosion and fire use appropriate protection especially for your eyes. YOU are responsible for any risks you take.

I really prefer insulated terminals so I also ordered some insulated copper terminals with M8x1.25 threads. The user reviews say the plastic is rather fragile so I don't know how well these will work (haven't received them yet)..

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I expect to have to trim the threaded parts to fit the battery terminal, hole depth.

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
The answer is Yes, kinda...
...besides smaller solar systems; I have four 100 watt panels and several controllers,that can be used (but haven't yet) (I used a 100 watt folding suitcase system (two x 50 watt panels) for the last big trip) and have 2 pair of the 100 watt panels that I expect to hinge together to make suitcase style assemblies (for ease of transport). I would ultimately like to transport these on a roof top carrier, on the vehicle, but would only expect to use them for trips longer than a week (which has worked well for me in the past, when just powering the tent & accessories).

I will, probably only bring the smaller, handier 50 AH battery (for tent accessories, and not bring a solar panel), and use the one burner propane stove to heat food for quickie and extended level 1 fire ban camping (widespread at this time) .
I plan to bring, and cook from both100 AH batteries for level 2 fire bans, probably recharging them at home, and to use the solar panels for recharge only during more extended trips.... bringing this amount of solar panels is a significant increase in gear and more than a small hassle.

Camp fires don't seem like a good idea right now, so I may breakout the portable propane fire pit and power it with a 30 pound tank; at least during stage one fire ban camping (pretty much all flame seems to be verboten for level 2 bans)..... I figure I can have a moderate flame/simulated campfire, for three maybe four level 1 ban evenings.

I really need to get out and find a ranger to ask exactly what is legal...

Enjoy!

Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper


terminal installed on a battery.

Enjoy!
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I received the insulated terminals and cables.
I doubt that I will use the insulated terminals (and cannot recommend them) since the insulated terminal caps do no have enough internal clearance to allow the use of more than one thick cable lug and still cover the stud threads when both lugs are removed from the terminal.

Enjoy!

...Time to hook it all up and make breakfast... (fried egg & toasted cheese sandwich, with microwave heated water (and teabag (coffeebag?) coffee)...

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I normally prefer Maxwel House but I could only find pics of Folgers...

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I found what appears to be a pretty powerful vacuum/suction source on amazon; (I decided to gamble, again)
Light Camera accessory Auto part Font Adapter

If it works out it will let me vacuum pack the foam hospital pad for the cot which is very large if just rolled without sucking the air from the package....
Drinkware Liquid Cylinder Food storage containers Ingredient

I can use a shop-vac to vacuum pack it in a garbage bag at home, but haven't been able to find a heavy duty enough suction source to vacuum package (shrink it down) for the return trip; until now. (Hopefully, it should arrive near the end of the week).
I tried to find it for 12 volt power but no luck, so I will need to use a 400 watt or so, minimum, inverter to power it; not a big deal the inverter that I use for cooking is good for more than 1500 watts.

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Do you have a link for it???
inflator/deflater

Personally; since it is an experiment I would recommend waiting until I find out if it works well for vacuum packing/bagging.
I will post my results after it arrives.

Enjoy!
 
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inflator/deflater

Personally; since it is an experiment I would recommend waiting until I find out if it works well for vacuum packing/bagging.
I will post my results after it arrives.

Enjoy!
No worries. Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
No problem...
Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
I got the inflator/deflator from Amazon, last night;
Light Camera accessory Auto part Font Adapter

It is surprisingly powerful, the air flow feels like a regular vacuum cleaner, much stronger than the 12 volt inflator/defaltor fans that I have used in the past.
Automotive lighting Magenta Auto part Wire Electric blue

It reduced the size of the rolled hospital pad from approximately 30 inches tall and 16 inches in diameter to about 25 inches tall and 8 inches in diameter. When the tone of the deflator changes its done all it can.
Drinkware Liquid Cylinder Food storage containers Ingredient


Statue Sculpture Wood Art Fashion design


I don't believe the small, antique, shop-vac could do much better.

Next I will purchase a couple of jumbo vacuum storage bags (it was very iffy that I could fit the expanded, rolled up pad into one but once I shrink it down, in a gargbage bag it should fit (basically a two stage operation)...
I am also going to use this for packing the bulky nylon flight jacket that I use camping, and it could make inflatable furniture semi practical (although I am a bit paranoid about leaks; the tent could use a sofa (...dream on...)).

I am going to call this one a success! ...and can recommend this inflator/deflator for limited vacuum storage use (since it is made in china; who knows how long it will last?).

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I know that times are tough for many but; what do you want/need/desire to help enjoy camping more? ...I try to do as much/many make/do-it-yourself (DIY) projects as possible to keep the costs down.

I just ordered the parts to make a second ceiling light for the tent. This one will help light the front area of the tent (hopefully)...

Here is a pic of the old one, that is used inside the tent.
View attachment 3087

some parts will be a slightly different shape...ordered the parts from amazon (around $35, if I recall correctly). I will need to pick up a long extension cord to use as the cord when I go to wallymart tomorrow. I will try to post a DIY thread, with a parts list, after I get all of the parts.

Enjoy!
 

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I know that times are tough for many but; what do you want/need/desire to help enjoy camping more? ...I try to do as much/many make/do-it-yourself (DIY) projects as possible to keep the costs down.

I just ordered the parts to make a second ceiling light for the tent. This one will help light the front area of the tent (hopefully)...

Here is a pic of the old one, that is used inside the tent.
View attachment 3087

some parts will be a slightly different shape...ordered the parts from amazon (around $35, if I recall correctly). I will need to pick up a long extension cord to use as the cord when I go to wallymart tomorrow. I will try to post a DIY thread, with a parts list, after I get all of the parts.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
That’s pretty cool but you said you spent $35. Klymit has the LED lights that are inflatable. They fold up to a small size. They have magnets on them and a carabiner. They are on sell for $39 for an XL.
I have since/more recently found a porch/entry light at wallymart that includes most of the parts for around $10... Its kind of a shame that I don't need another.
Lets see:
wallymart light $11 (local store)
Extension cord $6.50
Assorted parts (amazon) < $ 12
LED bulb (same as used at home $2)
total price $32
An optional pull chain light switch is on the order of $3 to $4.
...If you want a very light duty carabiner for hanging things/key chains (not for climbing) they are like a buck or two.

Assembly time (therapy) no charge...

I have found that magnet can throw off compasses and that vibration if they are carried near compasses or other ferrous things can magnetize/demagnetize them
.
...wanted a light bright enough to read by so 350 lumen of light is pretty much the minimum, the Klymit light advertises "up to 270 lumen" (meaning it is probably less).
If you don't like the brightness/dimness/color temperature of a standard LED bulb; you can just change it; quickly and easily, for one you do like..

I realize that 110 volt lighting while camping is not for every one, but it works well for me, both for tent lighting and for emergency/power failure home lighting.
Each spring I search for a more portable form of lighting for the tent; so far; they are either too dim or much too bright... but they keep improving, so I have hope that I can ditch the cord...

I hope Klymit lights.. or some other lighting works for you.. (I see the light tube on amazon right now for $20)

Enjoy!
 

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I have since/more recently found a porch/entry light at wallymart that includes most of the parts for around $10... Its kind of a shame that I don't need another.
Lets see:
wallymart light $11 (local store)
Extension cord $6.50
Assorted parts (amazon) < $ 12
LED bulb (same as used at home $2)
total price $32
An optional pull chain light switch is on the order of $3 to $4.
...If you want a very light duty carabiner for hanging things/key chains (not for climbing) they are like a buck or two.

Assembly time (therapy) no charge...

I have found that magnet can throw off compasses and that vibration if they are carried near compasses or other ferrous things can magnetize/demagnetize them
.
...wanted a light bright enough to read by so 350 lumen of light is pretty much the minimum, the Klymit light advertises "up to 270 lumen" (meaning it is probably less).
If you don't like the brightness/dimness/color temperature of a standard LED bulb; you can just change it; quickly and easily, for one you do like..

I realize that 110 volt lighting while camping is not for every one, but it works well for me, both for tent lighting and for emergency/power failure home lighting.
Each spring I search for a more portable form of lighting for the tent; so far; they are either too dim or much too bright... but they keep improving, so I have hope that I can ditch the cord...

I hope Klymit lights.. or some other lighting works for you.. (I see the light tube on amazon right now for $20)

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
... Next project:
I'm thinking folding side shelves for the cooler...
open shelf, open cooler, remove item, put on shelf and close cooler...

Ought to beat putting things on the ground... Or trying to juggle them!

Any suggestions?

Enjoy!
 
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