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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
none yet, my finances tanked
wanted to elaborate, for clarification.
i work for my father as a carpenter. lately we have been sub-contracting for another contractor, i will refer to as CJ.
as has been mentioned, i am Autistic. the fateful day at work, i was extremely overwhelmed by the number of people buzzing around, as well as one guy running a jack-hammer to break up some concrete to build a shower pan in the bathroom. so very chaotic, noisy, and unfavorable for a Autistic person to stay zeroed in on task.
so CJ walked up to me with a very confrontational attitude, and right in front of all the other workers, and proceeded to tear into me, up one side, and down the other, because for a moment i was standing motionless.
CJ is unaware i am Autistic, and likely wouldn't care anyway. but because of CJ's actions, i was so very close to a full-blown autistic meltdown, i was litteraly shaking.
as my father was my ride (to save on gas), i finished out the day, but it is quite likely i will never work for CJ ever again. i can't risk a meltdown.

so, the effect of this is, while my father still sub-contracts for CJ, i am out of work, while still having a job through my father. so no money coming in.

i would love to retaliate, and sick the ADA lawyers on CJ, but i must be the bigger man, and simply deny him the use of my labor, ever again. and quite frankly, i don't care if he ever knows why i chose this route.

i still want to work on the camper, but for now, it will have to be the no-cost projects, like prepping everything for when i can afford materials.

anyway, wanted to get that off my chest, and i hope my doing so does not offend anyone.
 
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
had an idea... as far as patching the hole in the floor, where it was rotted out, i could use 3/4" plywood, and just use some 1/4" underlayment plywood to fill in the rest of the floor. or even just a section of it. that would give my batteries something more substantial to sit on top of... and i have a scrap of 3/4" plywood that may be big enough to work.
I am thinking too of installing a single layer of fiberglass over the floor, under the batteries, with a floor drain hole, in case water gets in through the hatch vent. just so i don't get any rot. (i feel like i mentioned the fiberglass idea already...)

i am just trying to think of ways to progress, with little to no money.

there is still some wiring to do, and a bit more tear-out of bad paneling, though it may very well be easier to go over the paneling with new....

i wish i had some paneling to go back up on the ceiling, and walls, but i don't have the money right now. so for wiring in the 12V lighting, i will just install blocking between the aluminum rafters, and drill a hole for the wire. then i can run the wires for the lights, and leave them pending paneling, or even temp wire the lights up.

the paneling where the shower was, i need to tear out as it is disintegrating. i would like to eventually replace it with good looking (shop-grade birch?) plywood, so i can build in storage shelving. i also need to straighten out the plumbing that used to go to the shower, as it is being discontinued there.

weight-wise, the storage shelving backing plywood could actually be pine strapping for support, and just regular paneling for covering.
not sure yet what the stored-items retention will be yet. i was thinking some stretch netting, but i could make flip down slat panels too, if it is cheaper.

other things on my list to do... the landing gear legs need to be synchronized. one is lower than the other, even though they are tied together. fairly easy, just hookup to my truck, crank the legs all the way up, and when one reaches the top, i remove the joining pin (bent over nail), and rotate the joining shaft to bring the other leg up. then simply re-join them.
i need to check the tires (air pressure), so they don't get low and develop any cracks, or major flat-spots.
i really need to attach the steps properly, so i can use them. they are only held on by one bolt...

so anyway, there is stuff i can do, even without money. i just have to get going earlier in the morning when it is cool enough to work in the camper. :)
 

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I am sharing some photos I took when we repaired a soft spot in our storage bay. The original material was 1/2" osb.

Here is all that the original osb that was still structurally sound after we removed all the rotted wood.

Wood Trunk Grass Bedrock Natural material
Grass Wood Groundcover Road surface Tints and shades
Wood Outdoor bench Road surface Plant Grass
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Didn't mean to semi hijack your thread but thought you be able to repeat what I did in your renovation.
not a problem :) i see it as inspiration.
 
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
yeah, i noticed that. looked like either the hatch there leaked, or the under-floor membrane was retaining water from a leak somewhere else. OSB doesn't like water very well. even the product Advantec, with it's water-resistant glue, fails after a period when constantly exposed.

i currently have a membrane installed, but i will also use a oil-based preservative on the plywood i install, as added protection, and i don't have the money for the RedGard. the oil preservative works pretty good. we use it on our staging planks, and have had those for many years. i also intend to add a belly cover membrane under everything to seal it all a little better. i think the product you mentioned a while back (i have it bookmarked), the plastic cardboard looking panels, will work well for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
worked on the camper a bit this morning. just some small putter jobs, as i didn't want to be coming and going much in the rain. i had some debris to clean out, and i organized my pile of parts. i also took a look at things from a design point of view, and i hope i have enough room for everything i want to build in... it seemed a bit smaller than i remembered. but then, i still have yet to take measurements for a CAD drawing... or if i did, i lost them. perhaps a job for tomorrow.

still looking to put the U-shaped dinette in back, and the kitchen on the drivers-side wall. basic kitchen, just a sink, cooktop, and storage cabinets. i think under the big window by the door, over the wheel-wells, will be a good spot for a platform to tie-down a cooler or two. so basically a platform with tie-down attachments.

water heater location... may just have to go where the old one was (back, passenger side corner), even though it is far from the sink. i will just have to put pipe insulation on the hot water line.

outdoor shower hookup... i am thinking close to the water heater, so less water is wasted waiting for it to warm up. just not sure of the logistics of actually how it will work yet. i will make a stand to hold a shower-valve inside the shower tent, and run two short hoses to the hot and cold hookups. likely just a washing-machine gang-valve for simplicity (hookup valve, not the in-tent shower valve). but i think that would be the easiest to use system.

so, even though i will build the camper for dry-camping in mind, it still needs AC power for some things, like keeping the batteries up, as the one 100W solar panel just ain't enough. ;)
so i will need to get a generator at some point. i will make up a generator cord that will plug in the 50A inlet, and connect to the generator's 120V/240V 30A twist-lock. the cord won't be passing 50A, so i can use a lighter cord, that is easier to manage.

just some thinking out-loud, inspired by working in the camper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
ok, what i ended up installing (almost) in replacement of the rotted part of the floor, is Advantec. it is a OSB-like product with better glue. it was simply what i had available. i still have to make it waterproof, so i have not screwed it down yet. in the humidity, i just ran out of energy too fast to get it coated. at least i can walk over it, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
after getting a few measurements in my camper, i don't think i have room for a U-shaped dinette, but i do have room for a regular dinette, i think. but before abandoning the idea, i will take more measurements so i can CAD draw it out. the rough space i am working with is 14' X 7.5', give or take.

it is my hope today, to get the floor patch fully secured so i can build the battery box. the box will be sealed from the inside of the camper. i want to make a base pan out of fiberglass and resin, and drain it, in case of leak of any kind. don't want my patch to rot out. the upper part without fiberglass will be water sealed from inside, and air tight sealed as well. the batteries will vent using the vent in the compartment door.
the box will be built for 4 batteries (deep-cycle marine, as they are more affordable when the time comes).

so, we will see what i actually get done, if anything. but that is my plan, anyway. ;)
 
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Good Morning!

From what you have written I am guessing that you are figuring on lead-acid chemistry rather the lithium phosphate. I used sealed lead-acid for decades and was very happy with it/them except for the weight (quite important for man/person portable batteries, for a tent; but not really a concern for a trailer/RV).

Enjoy!
 
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I like your plan. With the CAD, you can play around with different arrangements to see what will work best for your application. I agree with @Happy Joe in that sealed acid batteries will give you the best value for your money. Yes they will be MUCH heavier than Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries. However, they will be MUCH cheaper than Lithium batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
wanted to share an idea i found on a random FaceBook video:
Wood Flooring Floor Comfort Hardwood

(just a screen-capture)
What you are looking at is a simple couch, that pulls out into a bed platform. i could build this into the back of my camper, and have more room for whatever, then when in need, just pull out, and toss a inflatable mattress onto it.
what can't be seen in the screen-capture, is exactly how it works. it is three sections. they all slide among each other. so when retracted, it is a solid surface, and when slid out, it is slats to support the air mattress.

why i think it would be a good fit for my camper? retracted, it leaves more room than the U-shaped dinette idea i had in mind., and when extended, it could be a full length bed, that fits two adults, easily. the one shown is low to the ground, but i could raise it up, as i need to clear the water-heater.

just an idea at this point, as i still have yet to CAD draw my camper due to the summer heat. it does seem to be a hot-one this summer... more than normal. or maybe i am just not built for heat anymore. ;)
 
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