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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,
Well, I traded my 1989 Sportcraft boat that we had for 12yrs, for a 1984 Fleetwood Prowler. 24'

Even trade!!

This is all new to us, and there are a few things that I really can't get answers to with the manual. lol

The camper is in very nice condition and very clean. It's old, and it's ok with us, I think we will make new memories with this now.

If anyone can tell me where the fresh water tank drain release valve is, I would be SO greatful!

Pictures to come shortly!!
 

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It doesn't have one like the valves on the gray and black tanks. Locate the fresh water inlets (the city water fitting and the larger spout to pour water in the tank) and the tank will probably be right below them and under the trailer. Now look under the trailer and you might see a downspout dangling down with a plug on it. If you have a drain this would be it. You unscrew/unfasten/remove the plug and the fresh water should drop out. If you are lucky there is a ball valve that allows you to open and close the drain for better control rather than all this water just dropping to the ground and getting wasted.

You can either let it just drop to the ground or collect it in a large basin and then water the plants with it or something similar. I installed a plastic ball valve on my drain so I can shut the flow on or off because my rig didn't originally have one.

I had a popup trailer and it did not have a drain. I had to suck it out with a pump I bought just for this purpose. Since that was such a pain, I never filled it up again and used city water pressure only. I hope you can find a drain.

If you still cannot locate the drain please let us know. Many times if you look low on the siding there might be a label where the "Drain" would be but you'll still probably need to look under the rig to find the drain at that point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you so much for your advice. I do normally use city water, and wanted to know, well, actually, after disabling the city water hose, I will still have water coming out of the faucets, with the pump on. I would say about a gallon of water still comes out.

Is water going into the fresh water holding tank?

Also, one other thing...........hot water tank.

Is there a seperate tank for that? How do I fill just that before lighting the hot water heater? Where is that located?

The manula is generic and not specific with my model!

Here are some pictures!




 

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I believe the water heater is behind that panel at the driver's side front corner. Remove the panel and it will be there. You will only be able to see the propane pipes and probably a large nut that would be the drain for it. DO NOT drain it while hot or you'll get burned. Let it cool, then you'll need a large socket and wrench to work it loose. Mine has a 1 1/16" nut (yup, it's big). You will probably have about 6 gallons of hot water in there. If you drain it, then the next time you use the rig make sure the plug in installed and tight, turn on the water supply and allow the tank to fill before you turn on ANY heat or you will damage any number of things.

All water from the faucets will drain into a "gray water" tank. If you have a toilet, that water and its contents drain into a black water tank. Check that, because some older rigs did not have separate gray and black tanks. Hopefully you do, because you MUST drain the black tank first, then follow this with the gray tank. The gray tank contents will help clean out whatever the black tank left in the plumbing.

The fresh water tank is only for use when a city water supply is not available and the fresh tank is filled with an inlet usually next to the city water connection. The pump is only for use with the fresh water tank since the pump provides the pressure. Monitor the fresh water tank. The pump may get damaged if it is running and there is no water in the fresh water tank.

You must not have the pump on when connected to the city water supply. The pressure comes from the city water. The city water connection uses a bypass to supply water to the rig and the fresh water tank gets "ignored".

If you disconnect the city water supply, and you run the pump it will draw out any remaining water that is in your rig's plumbing. It is not unusual for this to be one or more gallons. DO NOT run the pump if water stops coming out. Also note that not all water may get drained from the plumbing in this manner either. Because of low points and the flexible plastic plumbing of the trailer water might still collect and not be able to be evacuated because air that gets introduced into the plumbing as you operate the pump with no incoming water will leave this standing water behind.

I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now that the weather is turning cooler, I guess it is time for me to check the heating system. UGH...........time to read on that, unless someone can give me advice on how to do that.

Is one propane tank enough to heat for 2 days?
 

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I see from the pictures, you have two 20# tanks.

You can never say if a tank will last because it has to do with how much the heater is running and everything else too. For example if it's 40 degrees outside, there is a chance the furnace might run for a while, then shut off, then start up again. This will use less propane than if it's 0 degrees outside and the propane never shuts off as it tries to keep the rig warm. It also matter on how much air space you have to heat up. Since you have a smaller rig with a lower ceiling this will use less propane than say my large fifth wheel with high ceilings. In any event you will need to monitor for condensation and you might need some fans to move the air around. In smaller trailers there is more chance of pockets of cold spots and if unchecked these will cause lots of condensation which over time will cause mold, mildew or damage.

Then there's propane usage for everything else. Are you running the refrigerator on 110v electricity only, or are you using 12v/propane? Are you running the water heater on 110v electricity, or can you only run it on 12v/propane? These will also affect the propane usage. With a lot of description I can provide all the combinations, some which use more propane and some that use less and only if the trailer has these options available.

Here's what I recommend. Buy and take a couple of extra 20# propane bottles with you and don't worry about running out, unless you really go nuts with it. You'll find even then sometimes the propane will be used up pretty fast and sometimes you'll have plenty to spare. It's hard to tell. If you run out of propane in two days with that many tanks, then WOW! But at least you can refill the spares. When you are down to the last tank (use one at a time), THEN get the others filled. By then you should have a pretty good idea of the run-rate per propane tank.

As for using the heating system (furnace), it should all be pretty automatic and the same as what is at the stick house. If not in the documentation you will need to look at the furnace to see if it's got a pilot or electronic ignition. With your trailer being so old, it's hard to say what is in it - fully automatic, semi-automatic or manual operation. If you have more questions, feel free to post and ask for help. No question is too dumb!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Again...WoW thanks for all your information!! Your my life saver!

Yes, the camper is old, but in fabulous shape.

Propane is only used for hot water, the heat and stove, which we have not used. I cook outside or use an electric frying pan.

The hot water, we haven't used because it seems where ever we go, the water is luke warm anyways and we take our showers in the bath house!

So going camping in the fall months, could be interesting.

I do have two small fans that circulate the air especially when we use the A/C. Helps move it around from front to back.

I am so happy that you are answering my questions, because like I said before, the manual is generic and really doesn't specify to "our" camper.

Heidi
 
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