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Old 09-04-2011, 10:06 PM
Camper Type: None
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 3
Question Parking and leveling Trailer

I have a 2006 StarCraft Travel star 19CK. I went camping this long week end and the land was not level at all. there was a big slant and i tried to level the trailler with trailler legs thinking that they were used for that.

You guess, they're stabiliser and not levelers... now i broke one stabiliser and the other is crooked (a bit twisted) (on the driver side)

4 things :
1- How, where and what type of stabiliser order to replace the damaged ones ?
2- Can i replace the stabliser with leveling ones, like
Husky Stabilizer Jacks, 1 Set/Carton, with Speed Handle, For Trailers
with up to 19" Clearance from Ground to Frame; 24" Leg
Length, 8" Crank Stem
3- How do i level my trailler ?
4- Can i deflate the tire in order to level the trailler ?

thanks... i'm new at this and also, my english is not verry good.
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:25 AM
Camping Guru
Camper Type: 5th Wheel
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Murrieta, CA
Posts: 971

You can buy replacement stabilizers from any RV parts store. Remove a damaged one so the RV place can match it with the same type or they can suggest a better type (but you shouldn't have to do this). I can't tell what the stabilizer you described will work, but take it to the dealer to match it would work just fine.

This is a good leveling trailer procedure to follow - I hope you can understand this since you state your English is not very good:

What you need - leveling blocks (assorted), wheels chocks (X style, or triangular, a Bubble level, and the proper wrenched for the stabilizers and the tongue jack.

1. Pull into the site and position the trailer the proper distance from the water, power and sewer drain hookups.

2. Side to side leveling. Using a bubble level positioned sideways on the trailer's tongue, check the level from side to side. If you are not level you'll need leveling blocks or you can make your blocks using different lengths of 2x6 wood that have been cut at 45 degree angles at the ends (so you can drive onto them) to raise one side to make it level. Move the trailer forward or backward so one side of the trailer's tire are lined up with the leveling blocks, then drive onto the blocks. They need to be different lengths in case you have to stack them if the trailer is way off level. As the topmost block you might have a 1x6 piece to allow for more granularity. Do this until the bubble level is in the center which shows the side to side level is complete. If it's still too high or too low, move the trailer from the leveling blocks and add or remove them as needed. Do this until the trailer is level from side to side.

2. Making the trailer safe from movement: Chock the trailer wheels using triangular blocks or "X-chocks". You MUST chock BOTH sides to prevent ANY movement.

3. Front to back leveling: With the chocks in place and the side to side at the level, NOW you can unhitch the trailer by raising the tongue jack as needed, and move the vehicle away. Don't forget to remove the safety chains and the hitch cord. Turn the bubble level so that it now goes front to back. After moving the vehicle away now operate the tongue jack and use it to lower or raise the front of the trailer until the bubble level is centered (level). Now the trailer is level in both directions.

4. Stabilizing the trailer: The stabilizers can now be used and lowered and cranked into position snugly. Do not overdo it! The stabilizers are only designed to prevent movement of the trailer when people are inside walking around. They are NOT designed to hold the weight of the trailer (as you found out), but only to minimize movement. Operate the stabilizer until it contacts the ground, then making it snug. If the ground is very uneven you might need some blocks underneath the stabilizers to create a firm spot for the stabilizers to be snugged up.

5. Make the connections for water, electric and sewer.

6. Setup the rest of the camp.

SPECIAL NOTE: If you are using X-chocks (between the tires), you will need to go back and retighten them periodically because as the tires cool down after driving to your destination, they will shrink a little bit causing the chocks will become loose if the tires were warm when they were installed. Then if you are on any kind of incline the trailer WILL move downwards if they loosen too much. You might need to check this often especially as the weather gets colder. This is why using X-Chocks AND triangular wheelchocks together is a good idea. DO not rely on just one type or the other especially if the front to back angle of the trailer is not very level. The worse the angle, the more chance of the trailer rolling downward (not fun).

Now you are done.

Things you DO NOT EVER want to do:

- DO NOT deflate the tires, ever. They must always be at their recommended PSI or you will damage them, especially after a long drive and the tires start to cool down.

- DO NOT unhitch the trailer until the trailer is completely and safely chocked so it does NOT move at all. Some movement may occur when you first unhitch but the chocks MUST hold the trailer in place as it settles.

- DO NOT allow disturbances and interruptions from other people during this process unless they are helping you or else you will find that you'll forget something!!

- DO check and recheck the levelers, the chocks and the level just to be sure you are confident, safe and secure.

- DO NOT overtorque the stabilizers. They will break. Just snug them up to minimize movement. If you still think there is too much movement, then there are other products you can buy and install to help with this, but ask us in another topic if you need help on this. But it's a trailer and it's on a suspension and there will be some movement.

- DO the COMPLETE opposite routine when hitching the trailer back up to the tow vehicle - DO NOT change the order of how things were done when you first set up or you risk damage or injury!!!

For example this is a simplified list for taking down the trailer:

1. Put everything away that you set up in step 6 above. Bring in the awning, etc.

2. Drain and flush out the tanks and remove all the connections.

3. Bring the stabilizers back up.

4. Hitch the truck up and connect the chains, wiring, etc.

5. Remove the chocks and drive the trailer away to clear the levelers. This will also confirm the trailer is hitched correctly.

6. Put the leveling blocks away, check the trailer lights and drive away.

If you need help knowing about the tools or anything listed just let us know.

Murrieta, CA

2006 Ford F-250/350
2006 Montana 3500RL
Tent & Backpack with all the gear
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:28 AM
Camper Type: None
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 9

If I pull my fiver upon a 2x6 to level side to side, how well will the chocks hold while setting on the lumber rather than the ground?
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:27 PM
Enthusiastic Camper
Camper Type: Travel Trailer
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Niagara Falls, NY
Posts: 54

Rushman, if the trailer were to move wheel chocks will stay in place as the chocks are designed so that when the tire comes in contact with the chock it puts downward pressure on the chock preventing the chock from moving/sliding.
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:42 PM
Addicted Camper
Camper Type: Toy Hauler
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Oregon
Posts: 162
Default wheel chocking an rv

I don't know if it makes a difference but I always chock the side opposite the board I level with. Maybe I've been remiss in not chocking both sides but if there is much slope at all I use a 2x6 on the same side in front of the second tire.

Last edited by Gerry; 07-29-2012 at 07:48 PM..
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Old 07-30-2012, 04:48 AM
Camper Type: None
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 9

Gerry...Do you not use a board that is long enough to go under both wheels? I have seen some polycarbinate blocks that are small and look to be used for only one wheel or maybe blocks for both wheels on one side...
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:08 AM
Addicted Camper
Camper Type: Toy Hauler
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Oregon
Posts: 162
Default leveling board

I always take two boards that are long enough for both wheels because we've found quite a few places where one isn't enough. Gerry
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:45 AM
Camper Type: None
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 9

Thanks Gerry...I'm going to line me up some boards for this weekend. I have a woodshop so I can cut the ends to make them easy to get up on.

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Old 08-01-2012, 06:54 AM
dogbone's Avatar
Addicted Camper
Camper Type: 5th Wheel
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: north jersey
Posts: 265

BAL Wheel Chock - BAL 28000A - Chocks & Levelers - Camping World bought one of these years ago. They weren't so pricey back then. It works great, even on wood. It goes between the tires.
Bob & Deb
Diesel the black lab
2003 30' Cedar Creek rlbs 5 th wheel
2003 F 350 crew cab srw
6.0 powerstroke

Last edited by dogbone; 08-02-2012 at 07:22 AM..
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:59 PM
Enthusiastic Camper
Camper Type: Travel Trailer
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pubnico, Nova Scotia
Posts: 86

ART that was very good info well written and I don't see where there is anything left out good procedure to follow !


Carl & Michelle Spinney & Family
Yarmouth Nova Scotia

27.5 ft Skamper

" Try to be the person your dog thinks you are "
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Old 11-23-2019, 10:38 AM
Enthusiastic Camper
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 32

I've been using this leveler ramps and chock blocks.

I have a 31-foot Class "a" motor home. Drove up on the ramps and are working great. The only problem is that one cracked a little. It could be my fault because the tire was not centered on-ramp. 6000 lbs on the front end so it should not be a problem.
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delfating tire, leveling, parking

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